Île Saint-Louis

To all Christian readers, Happy Easter! To those who aren't Christians but celebrate Easter anyways as an excuse to stuff self with chocolate eggs and bunnies, Happy Easter to you too! Sorry I have been ignoring the blog for so long, it has been so beautiful in Paris lately that I find myself outdoors more often then in front of my laptop. To those planning your Paris trips, good job, it seems like its the best time to be here. Temperatures range from 10-16 degrees Celcius in the morning and nighttime, and up to 27 degrees Celcius in the daytime. We will be getting bouts of rain next week, but its still going to be beautiful.

That said, J and I decided to take a touristy stroll on Saturday. Neighborhood targeted: Ile Saint Louis, The Place To Live if you really want to feel that you are in the Utopian type of Paris. Also the place to live if you have €20,000 per square meter to spend on an apartment. Yes I checked, since I wouldn't mind spending a year or two in this neighborhood. But one look from J said that it wasn't going to happen anytime soon.

Anyways, Ile Saint Louis is one of the two natural islands situated in the heart of the city. It is mostly residential, the most prized apartments surely has a view of the Seine (and throngs of tourists on days like last Saturday). It has no metro stops and two bus stops, a bunch of restaurants and cafés, some interesting novelty stores, art galleries, a luxury second hand store, and what interests tourists the most, it is home to the luxury French ice cream and sorbet maker, Berthillon.

I counted four Berthillon stores within 2 blocks on this island. I ignored them all and headed straight to MyBerry who opened on the island only a few months ago. This is the real deal peeps, not the wannabe frozen ice creams that you find in KL. It is identical to Red Mango and Pinkberry in NYC, which says a LOT!

So I'm sure all guidebooks will take you here, its definitely worth a stroll on a weekday. Have a taste of Berthillon, and let me know if its worth it!

Photos by Me

Place des Vosges

Its official! Spring is here! What do Parisians do? Head over to any green space in the city to do nothing, and this is one of the hotspots. Place des Vosges is nestled in the Le Marais neighborhood between the 3rd and 4th arrondissements. It is a square surrounded by arched buildings that houses art galleries, restaurants and stores. It remains quite local, with few tourists stumbling across this popular hangout spot.

This square was built by Henri IV in 1605-1612 and was known as the Place Royale. Well known residents of Place des Vosges include Victor Hugo, Sully, Madame de Sevigné, and Marion Delorme*. Now, the apartments around the square are homes to trendy and edgy Parisians who spend money to look like they don't have any.

If you happen to be here, don't forget to stop by Eux dans l'Eau, located at 21, Place des Vosges. It is a cute little hat shop where you can get the most cliché of french berets for under 20€, and hats that are à la mode for 13€. I must say, J.L and I got ourselves each a hat and felt oh so cool walking around the hood!


* Wikipedia
Metro: Chemin Vert, St Paul
Photos By Me

Les Colonnes de Buren

By far one of my favorite Parisian spots, it is hidden from the tourist path yet sits grand in the heart of Palais Royal. Les Colonnes de Buren (The columns of Buren) is a 3,000 m² sculpture erected by Daniel Buren in 1986, a French conceptual artist. Just like the Jeff Koons exhibition at Versailles, this sparked a debate about integrating modern and contemporary art with France's historical buildings. Personally, I love the old+modern look, it gives a kitschy edge that not just any city can pull off.

This is a perfect spot for picture taking, for taking a rest after a long walk, or to grab a bite of a sandwich perched on one of the columns. There's nothing much to do really, but I find myself coming back just to gaze around and daydream.

This square actually inspired the theme of my Malaysian wedding. This was our Alice In Wonderland/Colonnes de Buren inspired wedding cake!

Photos by Me
Cake photo by Saiful Nang
Metro: Palais Royal

Parisian Townhouses

Back in the day, what was considered Paris was just the little strip of island that we now call Ile Saint Louis. Everything else that surrounds it was considered the countryside. As Paris grew over the decades and centuries, the 20 arrondissements were formed. This is why today we find townhouses or even villas and bungalows in Paris itself.

They are not common, but can be found in the 20th, 13th, and 18th arrondissements. In the "Parisian villages" you will find old architectural structures usually made from stone, little winded alleys and cobblestone streets. Each townhouse or villa usually comes with a private garage and a garden. What used to be popular and middle class neighborhoods, these areas are now highly prized by the bourgeoisie who flee from what has become very touristic areas to find tranquility and peace in the middle of the city.

I don't suggest tour groups coming here and snapping mass photos, it remains private homes after all. But a little ballad off the beaten path with a loved one won't bother anyone..

Photos by Yamil Gonzalez

Place de La Concorde

Place de La Concorde is a majestic square situated in between the Jardin des Tuileries and the beginning of the Champs Elysées. It is in fact the largest public square in Paris, measuring 86,400 square meters (*Wikipedia). Located in the 8th arrondissement, it houses the famous Hotel de Crillon, the embassy of the United States and The National Assembly.

During the French Revolution, the square was renamed "Place de la Révolution" and a guillotine was erected. Among popular figures who were guillotined here include Marie Antoinette, Madame du Barry, and Robespierre. During the "Reign of Terror" in the summer of 1794, about 1300 people were killed here.

To get an immediate "wow I'm in Paris" feel, do head here! After snapping your necessary pictures, the Louvre and the upscale shopping area rue Faubourg St Honoré are both walking distance away.

Metro: Concorde
Photos by Me

The Cobblestone Street at Sentier

When I first moved to Paris in 2008, this was one of the first neighborhoods that I discovered. It confirmed everything that I imagined Paris to be. Cobblestone streets, little restaurants, bakeries and ice cream shops, and super trendy urban shopping, all accessible by walking. Part of the 2eme arrondissement, it has long be known as Paris's textile industry district until today. For a guaranteed "wow, I'm in Paris" feeling, take the 3 line and get off at Sentier. Walk down rue des Petits Carreaux which then becomes rue Montorgueil, and explore the streets in between.

I must say that the cafés and restaurants on this stretch isn't great for food, but super for people watching. The price of apartments in the area have skyrocketed, and most of the people who live here have probably been around for a long time. Apartment rentals for short stay are also available, and although it isn't ideal since its close to Les Halles (a forum styled shopping area where teenagers love to hang out and sometimes cause trouble), it is quite a central location for tourists.

So, on a sunny day, come here and savor the sights of florists and fruit markets. Walk all the way down until you reach Les Halles, then turn back and take the train from the Sentier or Etienne Marcel station rather than the Les Halles station. It is a great neighborhood to bask in Parisian lifestyle and to not worry too much about bumping into a tourist from your country.. ;)

Photos by AG
Metro: Sentier, Etienne Marcel, Les Halles

Pigalle & Le Moulin Rouge

Keep the children at home, remind the husband of his marriage vows, and practice saying voulez-vous coucher avec moi ce soir (or not!). Pigalle is the quartier chaud, in other words, the red light district of the city of Paris. It is situated in the 18th arrondissement (the shady side) and its tacky neon lights is the total cliché of the sex industry. The crowd in the area is a mix of the night people, its original habitants, and tourists.

Prostitution is not illegal in France. However, it IS illegal to work for a pimp or to solicit your services in the streets. Flashing private parts isn't allowed either, thank god. However, if a man happens to buy a bottle or two of champagne in your seedy club, and you just happen to drag him over to the private room with your skirt down, well, that will be simply considered "guest relations".

In the middle of it all, lies the infamous Moulin Rouge. Tickets for the show if I'm not mistaken costs €80 pp, that includes 2 drinks. Dinner + show costs from €150-€180 (depending on the dinner you choose). I was at first enthralled by the costumes and feathers and the whole set up, but after 15 minutes or so, it became harder and harder to be impressed. The women (of which maybe 20% are French) are constantly topless, the songs pretty lame, and in general it is very catered to tourists. The crowd varies from families with very young children, and groups of curious old men probably from countries where showing your boobs in public will end up in a death sentence. I say don't waste your money. Take your pictures in front of the theater, make sure your bags are zipped and get the hell out of the area.

If you are looking for a cabaret show that is worth that much money, go checkout Lido.

Metro: Pigalle, Anvers
Photos by Yamil Gonzalez

Montmartre

Montmartre is a beautiful area in the 18th arrondissement, and also one of the highest points in Paris. It is a hill that is 130 meters high, which gives you one of the best views of the city from above. The 18th arrondissement, you will see, has several faces. At the bottom of the hill lies the Pigalle neighborhood and its famous girls, where sex stores and clubs line up the streets. As you walk uphill, the price of apartments that are just one street apart can have a difference of €2,000 per square meter! As you get closer to the peak, you will find yourself in a beautiful residential area, where townhouses are covered in greenery and flowers, cafes are quaint and art seems to be the center of people's lives. Many films including Amélie and Sabrina featured this area of Paris.

At the top, the little streets hustle and bustle with commerce for the tourists. You will find here copies of vintage posters, postcards, and anything your heart desires to buy to bring back home as gifts. There are many crêperies, ice cream parlors and restaurants. Most of the restaurants here are overpriced for what they are, and not necessarily "authentic". You will also find many artists in the middle of the square who offer sketches and paintings.
Look up and you will see the stunning Basilique du Sacré-Cœur, a Roman Catholic Church dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jeses. It is considered as a landmark, and can be seen all the way from the Centre de Pompidou in the heart of the city. In front of the basilic are steps that lead to one of the most breathtaking views of Paris. Have a seat on the steps and enjoy what you see!
Every time I have a friend or family visiting, this is one of the places where I absolutely make sure that they visit. It gets very busy up in the Sacré-Cœur area, but I always insist on the walk uphill. Without fail, everyone usually comments that it feels so "Paris", and that when they imagine Parisian lifestyle, this is it!

Metro: Anvers, Abbesses
Photos by AG

Hotel de Ville and Le Marais

Hotel de VilleBHV
My route today

After a much needed aromatic oil massage with J.B today, I decided to walk over to Le Marais to get some frozen yogurt. I use times like this to talk to myself, to mentally plan things, to think about who to delete on my facebook, you know, things that need attention! From Bastille I walk down rue Saint-Antoine, that then becomes rue de Rivoli, and I turn right at rue Vieille du Temple and head towards MyBerry. I was the happiest girl in the world when I discovered MyBerry with I.M. a few years ago, the closest thing we could find to Red Mango in NYC! Although they don't offer mochi toppings here, the endless supply of fresh seasonal fruits is sufficient enough for this gourmande.

From there, I head towards Hotel de Ville. Every time I walk by, I think of my dearest Daddy. When he saw Hotel de Ville for the first time, he said out loud "hotel ni mesti mahal ni!", meaning "this hotel must be real expensive!". I chuckled, then laughed my @$ off, and had to explain to him that it is not a hotel! Hotel de Ville = building of the city = city hall.

This City Hall is the main City Hall of Paris, and also the City Hall of the first arrondissement. So if you live in the first, this is where you get married, get divorced, and get papers done. Each of the 20 arrondissements in Paris have its own City Halls and its own Mayor.

Right next door is Bazar Hotel de Ville, one of my favorite places to waste time! You can get everything you need here, from clothes to perfume to towels and linen to toasters and mixers. Like its name says, its a complete bazaar, set like a department store with different levels for different needs. I love it! Where else in the city can you find wooden cutouts of the alphabet and magenta colored envelopes?!? Nowhere!

Le Marais is a super cool neighborhood, sometimes I don't feel cool enough walking around here alone because I'm not wearing vintage leggings. Its very American, gay, and artistic at the same time. Here you will find cool contemporary brands like Maje, Sandro and Berenice, you will also see many vintage stores, and a little further cheap popular brands like HnM, Mango and Zara. Its great for shopping, people watching, and self stuffing with American inspired food. (frozen yogurt, cupcakes, cheesecakes, hotdogs, etc).

Metro: Hotel de Ville, St Paul, Rambuteau
Photos by Me, Map courtesy of Google